SHED MATTERS 2

[Stanley]

Well, as you probably noticed, I let you down again. The little tasks built up and by the time I had them all cleared it was well after 9AM and I still had the gas man to deal with. Today is looking better.... watch this space!

[Stanley]

All went well this morning and I was in the shed at 8AM. I have knocked off early because I have had 4 days out of the shed and I know my limits! I shall get acclimatised to standing on my feet....
The job I decided to do was make the gland nuts for the cylinder covers and the steam chests. First some measuring up, no guesswork! Then a trip into the treasure chest.



The piece I decided to use was the scrap valve spindle. I know that will be a good bit of bronze. The first job was to get it clean and bright and the right diameter.



One thing that is very noticeable is that since I levelled Mrs Harrison and she is cutting dead parallel in the chuck, it's easy to get two opposing cuts to line up with each other.... We have our blank.





Usual procedure, nothing beats having a check. That's why the chest is screwed on the end of the gland nut.



Drilled 1'4" for the valve rod and countersunk at the business end. The edges have been chamfered and the Burnerd parting tool holder does its usual good job.



Knocking off time. One nut done bar drilling the tommy bar holes. I'm all set up now.... the other three can wait until tomorrow because daughter Susan has invited me to morning coffee in the Town Square in the sunshine.....

[micktoon]

Hi Stanley, glad to see your back in the shed. The engines are looking fantastic, top quality work as usual. I hope you enjoy coffee in the morning with Susan and the weather is nice for you.
Cheers Mick

[Stanley]

We made Kaffeeklatsch last for over an hour...... Sunny most of the time.... Even better than the shed! Lots of friends stopped for a word....

[Stanley]

This morning was just as it should be, a clear goal, to make the other three gland nuts and everything set up ready. I knocked them off but it was only after parting the first cylinder cover gland nut I realised I'd only bored it out a 1/4", like the steam chest gland. So I had to swap the jaws on the chuck and bore the offending one out. Only a small thing....



By 09:30 I had them all finished bar drilling the tommy bar holes in them, I didn't feel like doing that so I cleaned Mrs Harrison up, harvested John's non-ferocious and put some tackle away. No trees torn up but this is how engines are made, small advances and no cock-ups.... Tomorrow is tommy bar holes and the start of of the studding....

[Stanley]

Today I want to put the tommy bar holes in the gland nuts and start on the studding. I'm putting three holes in the piston rod gland, indexed roughly using the six stud holes and four in the valve rod gland using the fact that the steam chest is square.....



Quietly away and a good result. 3/16" for all the holes.



We have our holes....



Now we need to ensure that all the holes line up with their castings so that the Valve rods and piston rods run true and easily.



This included reaming the holes right through to make absolutely certain I had an easy sliding fit. Remember that the seal comes from the packing so don't have these too tight.



Now we can address the studs. First thing to do was make sure both engines need the same length, they do and I finished up knowing that I need 26 studs, each 2 5/16" long and of course, all 2BA.



I sammed up my 2BA rod and found I was going to be short of studding so I had to find some 3/16" rod, I shall end up making some studs..... Deep Joy!
That's enough for the morning, quiet steady progress!

[Stanley]

I wasted 45 minutes this morning. I got the idea in my head that I had a 3/16" collet and so I took the 3 jaw off and set up for the collets and then I spent half an hour looking for a collet I hadn't got! I gave up, put the three jaw back in and after re-checking my measurements, made 19 studs out of the threaded rod with a nice rounded end.



Then I got set up with the tailstock die holder to make seven more studs. The tin of Trefolex isn't empty yet and when it does eventually end I have a new one to go at. Talk about being well stocked for the future.....





The first one made and fitted to Sarah's cylinder as a check. I haven't tightened it down yet but they are a touch long, never mind, better than being too short and all the holes aren't necessarily exactly the same depth. That was enough for me. I'll get them finished tomorrow. If I hadn't wasted time with the collets we could have been further forward.....

[sister sarah]

Hi Stanley,
Sorry for no posts but I have been watching. and Mick always keeps me up to date if I've not had the computer on.Things seem to be coming along nicely and the parts are looking good. Can't waite to see the finished engine. How are you doing? XX

[Stanley]

Morning Sarah! Nice to hear you are keeping an eye on me. Shoulder was troublesome yesterday but better this morning. The engines are growing nicely, I know it seems slow at times but lots of fiddly work where one slip up can be a bit of a disaster! Don't forget that a lot of the work has been done and is sitting on the sideboard in the kitchen. Cylinders are a lot of work but we are getting on nicely and we're a lot closer to a finish than you might think. I'll soon have the studding done and will be doing the valves....
Send me an email telling me all about your plumbing, I want to know how you are doing!

[Stanley]

You can laugh but I decided to fit the studs as I made them. It saves counting how many there are to go!



I did Sarah's first. This is where you get the bonus for all the care you have been taking. The steam chest and lid were a snug fit but nothing needed adjusting. Only problem is I forgot to put jointing paste in! I'll sort that first thing tomorrow. It can be put in now because there is no need for the chest to come off the cylinder again....



I remembered the Stag jointing compound on Deb's engine.



Knocking off time. They start to look like cylinders now! As usual my studs are plenty long enough because I wasn't as consistent with my drilling for the studs as I thought. Never mind, they'll not see it off the Ribble!

[Stanley]

It took me a while to get in the shed, an article to write, the freezer to defrost and my meat for the day to cook.... Never mind, I was in there at 08:30 and today's first job is to split this assembly and put the jointing compound in I forgot yesterday.



An assembly like this, tightly made and with that number of studs doesn't want to fall to bits. The only way to get in is to use a sharp knife to split the joint and then follow up with other wedges (screwdrivers in this case).



Opened up just far enough to get a small paint brush in to apply the compound.



Back together again and two nuts snugged down to make sure the joint sets nice and tight.



I put the tackle away I had finished with and put a clean tablecloth on after oiling the surface plate. Too many milling chips about!



This is exciting isn't it. First try on of the cylinder onto Sarah's engine. Only one problem, I have not got the hole pattern in the target plate dead square with the base. Only a very close inspection will reveal it but I'm not very happy.... All the paint cleared out of the holes and all the threads started. Two tightened fully down and then some measurements to ascertain the cut out I need to accommodate the valve rod gland. I knew about this but rather than guess it at an early stage, I wanted to get the measurement after fitting the cylinder.



Some of the studs were bit tight when fitted through three sections of metal so I ran the 2BA tap down the holes to make certain they were a free fit.



Knocking off time. All the holes in the target plates are cleaned out and I've made sure the front lid holes line up properly. One thing you might notice is that I have broken into the new batch of 2BA studs and they are better than the old ones in that the heads are exactly the same size as the nuts and look better, being slightly larger, so I have gone onto the new ones. I'm ready now for milling the chunk out of each target end to give me clearance for the valve rod gland. But that's for tomorrow.....

[micktoon]

Wow, looking like engines now Stanley and looking mighty fine too they should come together quickly now.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers Mick

[Stanley]

It always looks like that when you knit the cylinder and the bed together for the first time but it won't be quick. A lot to do yet. Think long term about getting those wooden bases to me..... (Did you notice the 'S' is the right way up?)

[Stanley]

First job was to repeat the checking of the alignment of the holes in the lid and the cylinder by running the tap down them and then fitting the set screws.



Both cylinders done, now let's have a look at the beds....



I made sure the holes in the target end were going to be OK by poking a drill through 1/64" bigger than the 3/16" I need for theoretical clearance. Then I took the flywheel beds off both beds, marked them up and drilled them for the holes that will be for the holding down bolts. Ready for some milling.....



I set the first bed up and quietly milled the space out for the Valve rod gland.



The first one done and the edges broken with the file. I decided to knock off here because winding the handle on the mill had woken my shoulder up.... I had a chip chase and called it a morning.....

[Stanley]

The first job was to cut the target end on the other bed and have a good chip chase including the floor.



Then sharpen the cutter so it's ready for the next time.... Too easy to crash on and not make sure it's in peak condition.



Knocking off time. Both cylinders are fitted to their beds and the raw edges of the plate painted. We can move forward now!

Mick has just rung from the engineering show. He's found two of the things I wanted and is spending money like a drunken sailor!

[Stanley]

I am feeling guilty.... I had a few domestic jobs before going in the shed but allowed myself to be diverted into a couple of chapters of Len Deighton.... I ended up doing only one essential and dirty job. What you see here is one of the steel stock areas behind Mrs Harrison. What I wanted was some 3/8" steel for the piston rods because they are the next job. I had some but it was at the bottom of the pile so the morning, what was left of it, turned into a 'tidy the stock up' exercise. Well worth it but not what I had in mind....



Here's the result, I have my steel ready! I promise to do better tomorrow......

[Stanley]

The first job this morning was to clean Mrs Harrison up, oil the ways put a bit of a polish on the 3/8" rod.



I need the back lid on the cylinder for the next job so I made sure they both fitted and re-tapped all the holes.



Both of them done, all the short set screws running easily.



I popped this piece of stock up the bore, made the allowances for threading into the crosshead, picked the rearmost position and marked the stock. Overall length is 6 1/4".



The recess on the piston isn't quite big enough for the socket I shall be using so I skimmed a bit off the socket.



Then I got all my taps and dies ready.



The end of the first rod turned to size and checked with the piston, nice tight fit.



Make sure you keep the die straight on the rod!



Knocking off time. Both rods are finished at the Piston end and the correct length. Now they need threading to go into the crosshead but that will do tomorrow....

[Stanley]

First job was to thread the ends of the rods, 3/8" x 26tpi. Notice that I have left a shallow point on the end.....



Next job was to fix the piston on the end of each rod and install them both in the cylinders with just two set screws holding the back cover.



I stretched a point, put the linishing disc on the lathe and put a bit more finish on the crossheads.



The crossheads ready for marking after being blued.



Blued and pop marked ready for drilling and tapping.



The crossheads in place and checked for the stroke of the engine. This position is the end of the forward stroke allowing for clearance. They are just about right.



Then I took them off, marked them for the crosshead swivel pin, drilled them, cleaned them up and refitted them. Then I installed the crankshafts and blocks and tried the connecting rod blanks. Just about right. Tomorrow I'll make the clevis on the end of each rod, fit the rod and get the size of the crank pin bearing. We're moving forward!

[Stanley]

Today's job was cutting the gap that will make the clevis on the crosshead end of the con rods. I worked out this set-up. Not the most rigid in the world but it ended up being perfectly adequate.



First gap cut.



I cut two flats on the foot on the same setting as the clevis slot. This way I know that when I set the foot up for cutting to size it will be dead in line with the crosshead. Then I repeated the whole thing for the other rod apart from taking a rest in the middle of the cut for my shoulder's sake and to let the cutter cool down.



Knocking off time. Both rods done..... Nice morning's work and once more my El Cheapo mill has done the job, but slowly! Never mind, we're not on price work....

[Stanley]

We have the jaws of the clevis chopped out, now we need some shape to the outside. Same set up so the watchword is careful small cuts and lots of patience. We don't want a smash!



After a careful check with the square away we go. You'll soon see whether you have it right.....



Some time later, both rods cut on this axis.



Then cut the two side faces. You'll soon see if all is square by how the junction of the two cuts shapes up. I must have been lucky, these are OK.



Almost three hours in the shed for eight cuts..... I never pushed it but was very careful. I must have got it right, they are both square and we have had no cock-ups! I don't know if you have noticed but I have put a pop mark on the crosshead slide to mark the back limit of the stroke. That'll be handy tomorrow when I work out the centre of the clevis pin and the length of the con rods....

[micktoon]

Hi Stanley good steady accurate work there, looking very nice indeed. It sounds like your shoulder is still not too good so take it easy. You can tell it's not the first time you have done such work by the way you are planning ahead.
Cheers Mick

[Stanley]

Thanks Mick, they're behaving themselves..... Let me know how much I owe you for the bits and I'll send a cheque....

[Stanley]

I was pretty sure I knew where the hole had to be drilled in the clevis for the crosshead pin but just to make sure I set the crosshead on the back centre mark I made yesterday and checked the size of the crank pin bearing. It was OK.



Then into the lathe, I wanted two bobbins 5'8" diameter drilled 1/4".



That was soon done.



I used one of the bobbins with a transfer punch to mark the con rod and then put a proper punch mark in.



A bit of careful setting up and a 1/4" hole poked through the clevis. One tip when dealing with clevises, don't grab them too tight when they are oriented with the gap vertical, it's very easy to close them up a bit and that gives trouble later on.



The bobbins set up on the clevis to act as a filing guide to round the end off. Ideally they should be hardened but with a bit of care they will do as they are. I could have set the rotary table up and done them that way but hand filing is just as easy, not much to come off.... But that will do tomorrow.

[Stanley]

You know what we are doing this morning, don't mess about with small files!



Some time later, both clevises nicely rounded and a bit of finish put on them.



Then some 1/2" stock banged in the lathe. We need two clevis pins.



I reamed the holes out to get a decent finish before finishing the pins.



Knocking off time, two perfectly fitted clevis pins. Not earthshaking I know but another step along the road. Now they need retaining collars and taper pis....

[Stanley]

Straight into making the retaining collars for the crosshead pins.



Then sort out two taper pins, measure them and decide on the hole I need for them, 2mm in this case. This pic reminds me of what I often say to you, if you've got some cash you can spare buy something like this tin of taper pins. You'll never use them all but my god it doesn't half save some time when you need a couple!



This looks like a long way round but it isn't, it will save all sorts of grief. I'm milling a spacer to put in the gap of the clevis so that when I nip it up in the vise to drill the hole for the taper pin I have everything solid and I'm not squeezing the jaws.



Set up for drilling. Note the 1/4" bush on the end so I can put pressure on the collar to hold it while I'm drilling. Better safe than sorry!



Both pins fitted with collars and pins installed. By the way, a purist would put a taper reamer through the holes but I don't bother. The pins are hardened and make their own taper when you finally drive them home. I've never had one come loose yet.



We're ready for some centre line finding and marking up. I'm after 9/16" wide and take your time, this isn't as easy as it looks!



Then I got set up in the mill and as I was cutting the first side I realised I was making a mistake. The trap is that when you have cut the first side you haven't anything to get hold of to do the other side. Of course I have hit this one before but had forgotten all about it so I stopped.



Knocking off time. The new plan is to make the crank pin brasses, I can measure up what I need as the con rod feet are, and leave the final machining of the sides of the feet to the bearing until the bearing is finished and fixed on the rod. Dead easy then to hold the assembly dead square and mill exactly to the right size.