OneGuyFromBarlick

Although not a kitchen it is a refurb. My hall, stairs and landing are now purple. Can't praise Newtown Carpets enough for the carpets, Liam made an excellent job of the fitting.

I'll second that, Liam is a good man. You lot make me feel shabby but never mind, it won't be long until I die and someone else can worry about it!

Smart!
Colin has been cutting the beech block worktops to size and routing the joint for the L shape.

Looks good.
Quite steep, those stairs!

Wendyf wrote:Smart!
Colin has been cutting the beech block worktops to size and routing the joint for the L shape.

Thank you, Wendy. I have the beech worktops too, mine have square edges so a nice easy cut for a butt joint on the corners

Marilyn wrote:Looks good.
Quite steep, those stairs!

Optical illusion . A bit of lens compression.

Big Kev wrote:

Wendyf wrote:Smart!
Colin has been cutting the beech block worktops to size and routing the joint for the L shape.

Thank you, Wendy. I have the beech worktops too, mine have square edges so a nice easy cut for a butt joint on the corners

Ha! There are people in this world who need to make life more stressful & complicated!!

Wendyf wrote:

Big Kev wrote:

Wendyf wrote:Smart!
Colin has been cutting the beech block worktops to size and routing the joint for the L shape.

Thank you, Wendy. I have the beech worktops too, mine have square edges so a nice easy cut for a butt joint on the corners

Ha! There are people in this world who need to make life more stressful & complicated!!

I know what you mean about the curved terminal needed on the cut to get the rounded edges to fit. Trust Col to ignore the difficulties!

There are no curved edges, he just chose to do some fancy stuff instead of a straight butt joint.

Trust him.......!

Mine are beech block too.

I made template out of a bit of laminate flooring to cut a mason's mitre on previous worktops. It's fairly straightforward but was so much easier with the square edged beech block.

Ah..that's what he has done, I didn't know what it was called. Here are the two sections, turned over for a light oiling before they get fixed.

Wendyf wrote:Ah..that's what he has done, I didn't know what it was called. Here are the two sections, turned over for a light oiling before they get fixed.

Grand job. The only regret I have is setting the sink into the beech block, I have to oil it a lot more than the rest of it as it doesn't like the water...

That is going to look fabulous!

I am impressed.....

We were advised not to oil but apply a resin treatment which is completely waterproof. It looks good and works well

That sounds interesting Sue, what was it called do you know? We have some well oiled Ikea wood block worktops in the utility room and those have survived quite well with some intense use over the last few months but have to admit to being concerned about the sink area in the kitchen....especially as it is a Belfast sink with no drainer!

Worktops made from natural stone are treated with resin on the surface to close the pores. I assumed that ones made from natural wood were similarly treated nowadays to protect them from water. There's a product called Nano-Coating for treating wood worktop surfaces. We took the easy and simple approach - avoided natural wood and used a `wood-look' worktop. We prefer to keep wood away from water!

Bob is trying to remember.....! Rustin's resin coat. Gives a lovely surface. We have it as a high gloss but you can put less coats on as a more Matt coat

Thanks Sue, that looks lovely. It's a Rustins Danish Oil that we are using which is a mix of oil and resins.

The resin finish looks lovely, do you know if it will work over a previously oiled surface?

Kev I am not sure. You may be able to pre treat .

We sanded the surface and then a light sant between coats. You can re apply at any time again with a light sand. The hardest part was to get a smooth surface with no ripples. It works brilliantly, even round the sink, which in fact is where this bit of work top us. I suggest you contact the manufacturers. The underside was treated as well so that no damp would seep into the bottom side.

Perhaps the Rustins danish oil and resin may be a solution to a previously oiled surface