OneGuyFromBarlick

Nice morning and productive....



What the design committee came up with was using location pegs so that I could use the already drilled bonnet holes for locating the drill which will be much easier. First thing to do was clean up and install the smaller vice that has shaped jaws, self centring and aligning on true cylinders and lower level which makes things easier to see. Then I had to put one hole in the bonnet to be drilled to act as a reference for the 3mm dowel that was going to locate the two bonnets against each other.



This was the setup, finished bonnet on top and the new one underneath. I did consider drilling the bodies at the same time but decided I was better off doing the bonnets first.



A lot quicker and more accurate. It didn't take long to make the 3mm dowel and get all the bonnets to the same stage.



This is the next task and I spent quite a lot of time trying to work out some way of holding the lids on the valve body while I was drilling but in the end decided on a far simpler solution.



The lids are registered on the body by a good spigot and if the drill is perfectly centred there is no torque on it so I drilled the first hole freehand and then used a 1/8" Whitworth bolt to locate the hole. Then drill the opposite hole and do the same. The remaining 4 are easy after that. I cracked on.... By the way, I set the depth gauge on the VM for the required tapping depth. All the bodies are identical so it did for all of them.



By knocking off time I had all the bodies drilled using their matching bonnets as a template. The eagle eyed will see that there was one error. When I machined the bodies I took too big a cut on one of the branches and got a flat on the side of the head of the body. My drilling for the stud has broken out there... Too bad! I am not going to go into a decline, these are toys after all, we're not running 300 looms! It's a pity but far too mu8ch work to make another body.
Tomorrow we can do some tapping and opening out the lid holes to clearance for the studs. Only 36 holes to do......
I finished the morning by having a clean up and vacuum, I do like a clean start!

Bad news from the design committee. They have pointed out a crucial mistake in my design but it can be rectified by a simple addition to the headgear. Thinking cap on this morning. Not a catastrophe, design is OK, just an error of omission.

The morning started with the resolution of the dispute with the design committee who had mistakenly thought that I had missed out a vital part of the valve headgear, a retaining bar restrained by forks running on the standards and pinned to the valve rod to stop it rotating. I told them that they had mistakenly looked at a drawing of the alternative type of valve where the operating nut was incorporated in the hand wheel. I produced the Hopkinson drawing of the type of valve I was making and they withdrew the modification.....



I started off by locating the matching bonnet on the body with a 1/8" drill which fitted the holes perfectly. Than I realised that before I could start tapping I had to open the holes in the bonnet to clearance size for the 4BA tap to enter.



I'd already dug out all the taps I needed and the driving equipment but had to move over the the VM.



All 18 holes opened out to 3.7mm clearance....



Once that was done I cracked on with tapping the holes in the body. Note that I started with the worst, the one where the flat on the body had interfered with the stud hole. I ran the tap into it anyway and got half a thread into the body. I had a cunning plan.



Once I had the holes tapped I made a trial stud and got the length I would need for all the others as they were all drilled with the same depth stop location on the VM. Once I had this I set to and made 18 studs, all cut to length and rounded at the ends.



As I did the tapping I realised that as I was intending to fit the valve body to the bonnet permanently I needed to drill and tap the holes in the lid for the standards. So I did all six holes.



That got me to the stage where I could sort out three 7/16" PB balls, pop one in the valve body, put some stag compound on the seal of the bonnet and start bolting the valve together. I put a shorter stud into the bad hole and had enough grip on the half thread to tighten the nut down. I had got the stud size just right, there was enough room for the nuts to go on. It would have been more to scale with a smaller size but not as efficient a hold-down, these valves are intended to withstand 120psi of steam if necessary.





Knocking off time. One valve partially completed. I now have the proper length for the valve rod, it will have to be shortened and some more thread put on it. The spare stud length needs cutting off and the ends dressed. The gland nut fits and the bar that will be on top of the standards fits and is threaded correctly.
Tomorrow I shall make some careful measurements, decide how I am going to fit the hand wheel and bring all the valve rods to finished dimensions. I shall adjust the thread by turning some off the bottom end of the rod as I have plenty of length to play with. Then I can make the standards for all three valves, fit this one up and apart from the handwheel and final body finishing have one valve completed before starting on the others. Lots of small fiddly jobs but not a bad morning's work. I am well pleased with the result.

The task was clear, we are here this morning to get this valve close to completion and in the process get some sizes for things like the standards and the valve rods.



One of the first jobs was to put tommy bar holes in the gland nuts and make sure they were all a good fit in the bonnets. Tip, two holes at 90 degrees to each other is all that is needed, if one is blocked by the standard the other has to be clear.



I'm very sorry to say that I got a bit brutal with taking the excess off the studs, they were all tight so I just ground them off on the grinding wheel.... I know, but I would have cocked up doing it any other way because of my eyes.



Just a reminder before you start fine turning. Honing the tool with a fine stone was good enough for Johnny Pickles so it's good enough for me.



After shortening the valve rods by half and inch and making sure they fitted nicely, I could measure for the standards.



I had some silver steel rod that was just the right size but only enough for three so I turned some slightly larger steel down and ended up at Knocking off time with six blanks.
If you're thinking I didn't get on so fast it's because I had a bit of a cooking emergency half way through the morning and had to put it right, largely by repeating what my mother used to say, "It isn't burned, it's just well done!".

Can I ask something which has been puzzling me? You seemed to do a lot of work producing the saddles from round bar, why didn't you produce them from flat rectangular bar?

Understandable China. First I had no suitable flat bar. Second, doing them the way I did in the lathe I could get the centre drilling for the valve spindle screw dead centre and strike a PCD circle that gave me exact centres for the top end of the standards, exactly the same centres as I have on the top of the bonnets. (3'4" PCD). Easy to get a good finish on the faces in the lathe and a nice curved end. So, although it looks a long way round it is actually quicker and better with much easier work-holding and fewer demands on measuring by eye. Rulers and punch marks are my Achilles Heel at the moment! Remember they are tiny, only an inch long overall.
Nice to know you are watching and taking notice! Useful because your query will have answered the same question that many non-members will have been asking, I know from feed back that many inexperienced would-be shed engineers keep up with progress and it helps them. I wonder how many will get infected? If you are such a person, join the site and ask your own questions, we don't bite!

Straight in to tapping the remaining holes in the other two bodies now I knew that it was going to work. Boring careful work....


Probably an hour later I had all three valves at the stage where the studs were fitted tight in the body, the lids were on, sealed with Stag compound and I hadn't forgotten to pop the PB ball in them! I ground the excess off the studs and cleaned the excess stag off the bodies. Getting there!



I measured for the bottom thread on the standards, turned them down and threaded them. As I did them I was dismayed when the first one tried to go in crooked. Couldn't understand it because I'd been so careful with my verticals so I took it out and realised that the problem was that my gland nuts were fouling the standard so I popped all three of them in the lathe and took 40thou off them. Problem solved!





I fitted the standards as I made them and at knocking off time I had the first valve to this stage. I shall do the others tomorrow and then make the final decision about the length of plain standard to the saddles and fit them. In case you hadn't noticed we are rattling along nicely towards three finished valves!

Hi Stanley, I have not posted for a few days but have been watching , you are doing really well considering your eyes , you could not have picked a much more fiddly project ! They are all looking nice and hope you are happy with your progress.
I have not forgot about the Die filer you asked about, I will take some clearer photos soon, its has a table that inclines / declines / tilts so if you are filing work you can say have draft on a part, like a die where a puch will be punching a blank out so the punched part will not jam in the die.You can also put hack saw blades etc in it so do fine cutting as well as filing. Its West German made and good solid bit of kit.
Cheers Mick.

You're dead right Mick! I told you I had two choices when I started, a plain cock or this more complicated but better design. But, whilst they are not perfect, I'm glad I went this way. I find the harder I make the job and the slower I do, the better the result. A triumph of hope over adversity! Looks as though I shall have them finished and fitted just as I get the windows cleaned....
No rush about the die filer. Have you remembered my request to grab any good 4 jaw independent chuck, (3" or 4") that you see in a boot sale? Cash transaction including postage....
I got another query/criticism by email saying that I could have made the bonnets more shallow and the headgear smaller. I explained that I decided on that depth so I had room for a good deep gland and hence better sealing for the valve rod. It's a fair point it would have looked better in some ways but you can't scale the effects of packing as a seal. These will not leak at the gland!

This was the starting point this morning. The task is to measure up, determine the finished length of the standards and get all the valves to the point where the headgear is fitted up and ready for handwheel making..... Quite a lot of careful work!



It took quite a while to get to the stage where the first one was done but I wasn't satisfied with the alignment of the saddle and did a bit of adjusting after this pic was done. Another thing I did was open out the clearance in the saddle for the threaded part of the standard.



Close of play. The variation in valve rod length isn't a mistake, they are all the same length. It's just that they are in different stages of being closed. Still some titivating and tidying up to do apart from making the hand-wheels but what we have here is essentially three completed valves. Not a bad morning’s work for a bloke who is half blind!

One thing that pleases me is that there has been no polishing or finishing. What you see is all machine finish. I think I'm getting better at it.....

Handwheels today so the first job was to go into the drawing office and make some decisions. I had the bright bar I made out of the rusty piece and that was just over an inch diameter with a good finish so that was the diameter of the handwheels. I sorted out my 3/16" tap and the tapping drill and gave my HSS cutter a touch up and a rub with the fine hone....



Nothing nicer than turning good steel with a tool that has a razor sharp edge..... I didn't do a lot of pics, same method for all three. Face the end, centre drill, tapping drill (3.7mm) then reduce the end to 1/4" diameter and 1/4" length, tap the blind hole to full depth and then part off. Clean the top face off and chamfer both edges.



Knocking off time. Three handwheels made and nicely finished. I haven't been able to make my mind up about the treatment of the edge for grip... Perhaps something will come to me before tomorrow. Lots to do on the valves yet, finishing and doing the final fitting. Then there is the question of mounting them on the three engines....

The design committee have decided on knurling as a practical way of treating the handwheels. They point out that my engines are freelance miniature steam engines and not replica models. As such they should have what is appropriate for their size and knurling fits the bill. I agree with them....
I popped in the shed last night and liked the way the late sun was shining in through to window. Bit of atmosphere....

I'm glad you're knurling them. It's the first time I've had a clue as to what you're making.
I did a course once in the army which involved an introduction to the lathe. We made a set of watchmakers' screwdrivers. They were knurled. I really enjoyed doing that.

I wasn't wasting my time a few weeks ago when I refurbished the knurling tool I made long ago. The wear in the joints meant that while it still worked it wandered until it had found a comfortable plane to work in. It doesn't wander now and so I was able to set it up working very close to the chuck and it made a good job even though there was only .25" poking out. In fact it has done a lovely job on all three handwheels.



I knew before I started that this handwheel wasn't drilled and tapped deep enough so I had to set it up so I could poke the 3.7mm drill in and tap it a bit deeper. I could get away with this and as I have decided to use shaft lock to 'weld' the handwheels to the valve rod I wanted a good hold for the super glue. I used Doubleboost's ball bearing trick to get it central.



I reduced the ends of the standards until they were tidy with a sharp file and then addressed the matter I had been quietly dreading, packing the glands properly to make them leak proof. Lots of unconventional 'engineering tools' had to be deployed, My splinter tweezers, nail scissors. insulting tape and a magnifying glass. I told you this was watch making! A quick trip into the packing box for some graphited asbestos string and away we go.





Here's the first finished valve. The packing of the gland was difficult but I persevered and got it properly packed and tightened down. Encouraged, I got on with the others....



By knocking off time at 10:30 I had all three valves finished and what is more, taking a gamble I tried tightening them down hard shut and opening them again. The shaft lock had worked its magic, they are all fast as a thief! Of course I know that if they were running under live steam and got hot the shaft lock would probably fail and we would have to have a rethink but that isn't likely to happen on my watch.....
I put a bit of overtime in, put all my tools away, swept and cleaned the lathe and left everything tidy for tomorrow. I have two things to do, decide whether I want to piddle about 'finishing' the valves by polishing them of leave them machine finish. At the moment I'm favouring the latter. The other job of course is doing the necessary pipework so I can mount them on to the engines. That'll be a nice job.....

You posted at the same time as me David. You can see the knurling now, a really good grip and so easy to do if you are properly set up!

Nothing nicer than a good gloat..... I'm looking forward to fitting them to the engines....

I suspect I might surprise you this morning... I've been in the shed for over two hours and achieved bugger all.
It started so well, I was looking forward to fitting the valves and took the marine engine in, first for shaving. Then I went to my store of pipe fittings... No luck, these were all too big. Now I know that my treasure chests continually amaze the congregation, they are very extensive. Therein lies the problem, there is so much to search when you are looking for specific items. I was convinced that I had some small pipe fittings and searched high and low. Total failure! Undeterred I started looking in the far reaches, the places where they couldn't possibly be but to no avail. In the end I was in such a negative frame of mind I decided that the best thing to do was abandon the search, come out of the shed and have a fresh start tomorrow. Who knows, the back of my head might work on the problem during the night and suggest somewhere I have omitted to search. One thing is certain, I am in no frame of mind to do good work this morning! I shall walk Jack, have my dinner and perhaps watch some snooker.... Here's hoping I am in a better seam tomorrow morning!

12:00. The human brain is a wonderful thing. It took two frames of snooker and then the light dawned....



I told you I had some small pipe fittings! Look at these little beauties.... I am now a much happier bunny and can go for my afternoon sleep unencumbered by the frustration of this morning. One thing is certain, they will go back into a clearly labelled container!

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The first job this morning was to go through the pipe fittings and make sure they were all 26tpi, I was certain they were but nothing like checking and as in this case, running the tap through the old ones to make sure they were all OK. At the same time I checked on stocks of 1/2" OD copper pipe, as I thought, I have more than you can poke a stick at.



Then a bit of concentrated thought and measuring up. I don't know whether you have ever done any pipe-fitting but there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. I have always admired the work of good pipe fitters. Anyway, I eventually worked out how to do it without getting into the complications of using unions (I have a couple but don't like using them if there is another way. Too many unions in a pipe run is usually a sign of badly laid out pipe runs!) One thing that might interest the eagle eyed... You might wonder why there are two old fashioned vernier callipers on the bench. It's something I have been meaning to do for a while. The one I usually use is rather special as it is a fractional calliper, very useful when, like me, you are almost always working in Imperial fractions of an inch. The second one is a normal calliper that reads in 100ths of an inch.



The key to solving this problem was the design of this fitting for the valve chest and the chosen location of the valve on the engine.



I feel like apologising.... At clocking off time this was the state of play. All I have to do now is make a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer for the valve and a 1/4" nipple to go in between the valve and the elbow. Lots of fiddly little operations but no mistakes and it's going to work out fine! I've had worse mornings than this.....

The start of another episode in the valve saga... I did this pic because I I never cease to be amazed at the amount of tackle you need to pursue our simple little pastime of making things in the shed. I often think that it must put beginners off because they will think oh my god! how can I afford all that. Do not despair! I started many years ago with just a small lathe and some hand tools. You'll do the same and over the years it will grow. You don't get this collection in five minutes!



I have to make two 1/2" to 3/8" reducers for the stop valves that are going on the two smaller engines and I must have some way of holding them. The easiest way is to make a fixture like this tapped for the different sizes at each end.



This was just a check that I had my thread right.



Once I had the fixture made the two reducers were easy, just fiddling!



I made the connecting stubs I needed, got the Stag compound out and started to build it up. Half an hour later this is where we are at! If that seems a long time remember that you have to get all the fittings tight but aligned properly.



I did a 'studio portrait' of it.....



The marine engine is back in the front room. Next for shaving is the donkey. But it was almost knocking off time so instead of crashing on in a rush I cleaned the brass chippings up off the lathe and put them in John's non-ferocious scrap box in the yard and put some tools away. I'm satisfied with the way the marine engine looks, this one should be relatively easy......

Hi Stanley, quality work as usual, the fitted valve looks very tidy and fitting to the engine. I have to been to a Staem Rally with John and Bob today beside Sunderland, we had been going to go yesterday but it was a total washout all day, today was a better day to start with but then got out into a really nice sunny day. The rally was very busy and a good day was had by all , I think John will be posting footage next Sunday.
We all got a few bits and bobs from the used tool type stalls but no 4 jaw chucks to be seen, I have high hopes for next Saturday at Harrogate though, have a think on if there is anything else you need Stanley and I will see what I can find.
Cheers Mick

Thanks Mick, I have to admit I'm quietly pleased and the valves are fit for 140opsi as well, not toys! My mind is already working on what next.....
Don't tempt me with tool buying! I'll be delighted just to get that 4 jaw. I have a bit of a puzzle at the moment, my el cheapo Chinese keyless chuck is acting stupid and I haven't found the cause yet..... When I have the engines finished I'll have a proper investigation.

I started the day by making a 1/2" nipple to mount the valve on the donkey engine valve chest. The fixture I made came in handy again....



The donkey back in the kitchen and looking good. The valve is again the right scale and perfectly in keeping with the engine. More quiet satisfaction....



Something different. When I took the donkey back in the kitchen I lifted the tablecloth as usual to clean the surface plate and oil it and found that despite using a notepad as a mat, I had a ring of rust on the plate. Must be the temperature driving water down to condense on the plate so I cleaned the rust off, polished the plate and oiled it and cut this piece of wood for a coaster. That should cure it!



At this point I must have lost my presence of mind. I went in the front room and brought the big compound into the shed for its valve. My God but it's heavy! I freely admit that it drained my crystals and so I called it a day and watched the final two frames of the snooker final on Iplayer. (I went to bed at my usual time last night....) Brilliant snooker and I admit to shedding a tear when Stuart won. He so deserved it!
So, we are all set up to do some pipe fitting on the big engine tomorrow....

I think I got away with it! My back and the muscles in my legs feel a bit tight this morning but apart from that, I'm OK. Sad when you think that 40 years ago I could have tossed it round like a feather.... Heaviest thing I ever lifted was a road spring into place under a wagon, about 400lbs.... I reckon this weighs about 120lbs. Ah well....... One thing is certain, much thought will go into what I do when the valve is finished!

I got on much better than I thought because I thought of a different way of mounting the valve. Here it is ready to go out of the shed. I carried it into the kitchen because that was quite easy as it was on the same level as the worktop and didn't need lifting, only supporting. Then I had a bot of a think and decided to be stupid....



I polished the table in the front room and simply carried it in. It was OK because it was all downhill again, no lifting to a higher level. Feel free to play hell but recognise that one of the constant thoughts us crumblies have is keeping our independence. The fact that I could manage it by myself gives me almost as much pleasure as the engine itself. It will not get moved again in the near future!
I have a little trip into town now to get the lad at Birro's to glue the sole on my sheepskin slipper again and then I shall have a good tidy and clean up in the shed.
Now I've finished, I'm glad I made those valves the way I did. Much more work but a good serviceable job and note that I did no finishing and polishing at all on the valves..... I am, again, quietly pleased and that's what the shed is all about, satisfaction.